From a scholar perspective, to negotiate means to discuss an issue, to debate in order to reach an agreement. A process that involves recognizing the value of the other and be ready to make concessions. Whenever possible, the negotiator seeks to provide interesting offers to the other party, which are actually unimportant to him. The goal is not to convince the other person using the best argument, but to convince them of the importance of making concessions to get what we both want. In the context of insurance, you want the best auto insurance bid, while the insurer wants the highest premium you can afford.

The best way to negotiate the price of insurance still is to provide a cheaper estimate from a major competing insurance company.

Use the competition

Doing so gives you leverage, the edge you need to negotiate that price. Now with the internet, you can compare several companies and get instant quotes in a couple minutes. Just make sure the coverage you get is the same, especially when shopping for full coverage car insurance. Shop around and get quotes from multiple insurers.

Ensure that the generated estimates offer similar guarantees in order for the comparison to be valid. Some companies peel the amount for deductibles to lower their rates. That’s genuine way to reduce the costs, if you really believe you won’t get into an accident.

Good cop, bad cop

Sure, you could argue with the representative directly and give him attitude. Try it and come back to this very post. So? Of course it won’t work. We’re talking about trained sales people, they have ways to get around your aggro. There’s no need to be soft, but use the authority of a third person. For example, when an offer is made to you on the phone, ask if you can consult your wife/husband/mother. After a mumbled background conversation, come back and nervously laugh, joking about how the offer wasn’t approved by your boss. It sounds stupid, but you won’t believe the results!

Group your contracts

Most insurance companies offer additional discounts to customers who place all their insurance with them. With multiple contracts, you will be in a strong position to negotiate a better rate on all your contracts. Again, more leverage = smarter insurance bids.

Choose the annual invoice

Some insurance companies collect management fees for payment by check and regulations split (monthly, quarterly, semi-annually). Therefore, where possible, prefer the annual payment. One single deposit is easier to integrate into your budget and also less prone to quick inflation.

Accompanied driving (young drivers)

The vast majority of insurance companies give discounts to young drivers (under 3 years of license) who have opted for accompanied driving. Who knew your old folks could still help you out.

Driving courses

Some insurers offer driving courses, or can refer you to special driving lessons. In addition to being a good experience for young drivers, these courses allow for a bigger reduction for novice drivers. Depending on where you live, you will find advanced driving certifications, like snow or ice driving, for example. Those certifications can greatly reduce your premium.

Older vehicles

If you can’t stand supervised driving or driving courses, the most economical solution is to buy a five year old underpowered vehicle with low value. Then, after a year or two, assuming you have a clean driving record, prices will drop. Talk to your insurer about anti-theft etching services, where you can get your VIN (vehicle identification number) printed on some parts like your engine cover, rims, lights, radiator, etc. Such services can dramatically reduce your insurance bid.

• Filtering fuel
• Controlling the flow of fuel
• The distribution of fuel

The filtering is done by a small cylindrical screen (30 to 40 microns) to retain the solid particles that could descend further. The goal here is to prevent abrasive particles from coming in, such intruders could scratch the cylinders and thus degrade the quality of compression, thus the need for fuel injector cleaners.

The control of fuel flow is possible thanks to a solenoid (an electrical magnet controlled by the ECU). The metal core is secured to a cone which sits perfectly on a sort of cradle. When at rest, the needle is held pressed against the cradle by a spring. When the solenoid is jolted, the core compresses the spring and space is released between the needle and its seat, allowing the fuel to flow.

Holes are used to control the distribution of the fuel. Located at the tip of the injector body, their role is crucial to get the perfect fuel/air mix, as homogeneous as possible. The injector is literally spraying fuel so that it mixes with the intake air.

Therefore, it’s easy to understand that a clean injection system is crucial for engine performance. Proper maintenance by a professional is of course worth it, but it can be beneficial to use fuel injector cleaners, especially if you’re doing short drives often (as you would with sports cars). Prices vary a lot, but the main idea is the same with those fuel additives. Ask your mechanic which one is best for your car. The aggregation of small particles can lead to many issues, all of which could be avoided.

Plausible malfunctions

Filter plug

The build-up of solid particles at the entrance of the injectors might slowly clog the filter and thus restrict the flow. While this restriction remains low, the ECU will try to compensate by leaving the injector opened longer (by controlling the solenoid’s voltage). At low speeds, the consequences are hard to feel, but at higher speeds, when the injector is supposed to give the maximum load, output can be compromised. The mixture may also be too poor and lead to overheating.

Failure of the solenoid

Under the excessive heat or vibration, the solenoid can break and/or change its resistance. This can result in a lack of power to open the valve and thus a delay between the moment where you hit the pedal and when the car actually accelerates. It can sometimes feel like a transmission issue. It is possible to measure the resistance of the solenoid, but failure can be sporadic and difficult to measure.

A grinding plunger

The accumulation of deposits in the fuel can lead to more friction between the core and the sleeve, also resulting in a delay between the order to open and the actual opening of the valve, but it might also affect closing. A simple cleaning may solve the problem.

Leaking

The adjustment between the needle and its seat is very precise (a few microns in some cases). If there’s a gap, there will be a leak that could result in a slow unstable engine, and even self-ignition (drops of fuel falling on burning hot metal). Cleaning will solve the problem only if the leak is due to a deposit.

Failure of the nozzle

In theory, a nozzle does not wear out. It may become, however, clogged over time. Two things would then occur: restriction and an abnormal jet of fuel. Restriction in the flow would give you similar symptoms as those described above. It is also possible that the clogging is irregular, leading to a change in the shape of the jet. In this case, fuel can be sprayed onto the intake ducts or it may be vaporized instantly thus creating a local overpressure.

You’ve guessed it, fuel injector cleaners might just solve the problem.

I have a turbo car with 90,000 miles on it. Normally the engine is very quiet, no abnormal noise to my knowledge. From time to time, (that has already happened twice this month), I don’t seem to have a turbo anymore, the engine won’t rev above 2400 rpm, and can’t go faster than 70 mph.

At the stop and idle, I can roll the engine normally, but the turbo does not start.

What’s wrong? Should I visit my mechanic for a turbo maintenance?

The Whistle

Is there a variable geometry turbo on this car? If so, cleaning is probably sufficient. When a turbo is dead it makes another sound (pretty awful). If you’re hearing a whistle, perhaps the blades are lacking balance. This is a small job (probably part of your car’s turbocharger servicing), and will prevent damage to your engine.

Mass Flow Sensor

With a lot of bad luck, it might be the mass air flow meter (or mass flow sensor). When the flow meter becomes clogged it becomes difficult to rev up above 3000 rpm. Indeed, the flow meter measures the amount of air pulled in by the motor, and in turn sends the information to the engine management unit (ECU) to adjust the quantity of fuel required for explosion. Therefore, if it gives incorrect information the flow of air won’t be sufficient, thus reducing dramatically the output of your engine.

The flow meter also controls the operation of the exhaust gas recirculation valve (EGR).

Also to be noted, disconnecting the mass air flow sensor on a TDI won’t fix the problem.

The Problem With Turbochargers

Turbochargers have their issues. Primarily, from a design standpoint, being powered by the gases from the exhaust, it tends to lack performance at lower revs.

That’s why most of today’s manufacturers use a double boost. Basically, a small turbo for low speeds (smaller thus faster to fire through the inertia) and a big one for high revs. We find this particular solution on some BMW engines and the V6 HDi.

Some cars like the old Mini Cooper S use a supercharger on their engines (or belt-driven compressor). Unlike the turbo, the compressor is connected to the timing belt. A notable example of this technology is the Kompressor line from Mercedes.

Finally, VW has the TFSI, which has the advantage of having a compressor and a turbo. Resulting in a very wide power range.

Because of anti-pollution laws, many vehicles will use turbocharged engines in the future., The cost of turbo maintenance has to be considered when buying a vehicle.

Do you know how often to rotate turns the turbine of a turbo?

How Turbochargers Work

The first thing to know is the function of a turbo. Basically, it sends a larger load of air into the cylinders, thus increasing the amount of gasoline that can be injected into the combustion chamber.
The consequence is a sharp increase of combustion chamber’s internal temperature. On the one hand the air is compressed while its temperature increases and on the other, more burning gasoline produces more heat.

Planning For Changes

So the first issue you encounter is whether your piston will withstand this temperature (which I highly doubt). Many of the stock turbocharged gasoline engines spray a stream of oil around the bottom of the piston to assist in the cooling.

Then you will have a problem of self-burning gasoline with a high compression ratio (about 11:1). Either you use a gasoline with 110 octane or you will need to reduce this ratio below 9:1 by increasing the thickness of the head gasket, for example.

You can’t ignore the heat issue for too long. Otherwise, your beautiful K04 turbine will blow up at 2 bar with the rods planted in the ground, right from the start. You will also need to work the management of injection, since the current settings won’t be compatible with a turbo.

Another thing you should plan to change: the camshafts. The phasing and time of initiation of the stock engine might not be compatible with a turbo.

Only once you have evaluated all these points can you look at the practical stuff: how to install a turbo on your block. The installation can be rather complicated, since you will need to at least provide lubrication for the turbo. Consider changing your stock intake/exhaust manifolds.

Final Thoughts

When everything is finished, consider the compromised reliability of the clutch assembly. I know from experience that the Renault Sport range doesn’t tolerate the steep increase in power. Increasing the torque could give you some unpleasant surprises (see clutch replacement cost A4).

If you do everything yourself, you might end up with a blown engine. Also add the labor to assemble the whole (and depending on your model, invent parts that do not exist). Consider buying a turbo kit, do a bit of research and work with professionals if you’re not 100% sure.

Sorry if I was too honest, but you better know what awaits before you start.

The difference between regular gasoline, the better and the supreme is mostly the octane rating. The “super” or “supreme” type of petrol simply contains more octane per sip.

Why Higher Octane?

Now, perhaps you wonder what is the octane? Simply said, it is an anti-knock. Why would you need that? It is used to increase the capacity of a gas to be compressed before exploding by single compression. Why would you put supreme in a motor vehicle? The timing of an internal combustion engine is calculated in a very precise way. If the engine compression is too heavy for the compression capability of the air/fuel mix that is injected, then the explosion in the combustion chamber tends to disrupt the timing by causing the crank to turn quicker.

The reason why a turbo or high compression engine produces more HP per litre is that it forces a higher pressure on the mixture, which detonates with a bigger bang (as it is in a confined space).
By increasing the octane level, it allows the turbocharged (or high compression ratio) engine to compress a lot more air/fuel mixture before it explodes by itself.

Only then do you retain control over the spark plugs which are activated at the optimal time, depending on the position and rotation of the crank.

Therefore, instead of putting premium gasoline in a normal car, you could set your money on fire. After all, the end result is the same.

Adverse Effect

In theory, if the 87 octane ECU map is intended for 87 octane at 30 degrees Celcius, putting with 91 in these conditions is effectively useless and a total waste. Future cars will probably have an option for that, but it’s not for tomorrow. In the old days, you could lower the compression ratio to somewhere around 9:1, then maybe the higher octane fuel could be used. But ultimately, in today’s overcomplicated engines, there would be loss of HP with the 91.

Finally, the 91 being the high end of several oil (although you can sometimes find 94), I suspect, without evidence, that some additives are brought into the mix such as injection cleaners, lubricants and for the winter, a mixture that is less likely to freeze. This leads be to believe that the 87 tank, being the most popular, is refilled by the station on a more regular basis than the 91. Therefore, you are more likely to pump old gas when choosing the 91, especially if the station is not busy.

I’m having issues with my A4. The clutch seems to be wrong since a couple of weeks. Regardless of the speed, it’s not working properly.

While going to work the other day, found myself unable to engage any gear except reverse. But then, even reverse wasn’t working right. It was making a weird sound, and it’s still is. I stop it and turn off my engine, wait a bit, then start it again… nothing!

Now it works 1 time out of 2, and the sound is still there. I really need this car for work, this is annoying.

Of course, no Audi A4 clutch replacement cost is going to be easy to swallow. Still do you have any tips, anything that could help me for the diagnosis?

Well, first off, if you send it to the garage, they will tell you right then and there what’s the issue. You’re right, the cost of clutch replacement can climb up there pretty fast. Before paying a visit to your mechanic, you could try to diagnose the problem by yourself. Hopefully, you will save the mechanic some time, thus reducing the cost of your clutch replacement/repair. The following is not specific to your A4.

The Slipping Clutch

Just so you know, a heavily used clutch will slip. It feels much like spinning your tires in the snow.

No slipping? Then you might have a more serious problem (nothing that can’t be repaired, of course). For one reason or another, your clutch sticks (it stays active). So, you could have a broken cylinder. Certainly, in any case, there might be a problem between your clutch pedal and the rod pushing the clutch.

Look for Leaks

For starters, check your oil level for your clutch pedal if it looks OK, you shouldn’t have oil leaking somewhere between your pedal and your clutch transmission. While you’re there, you could also do a visual check under your car. If there is no oil leaking anywhere, it should give you a good clue.

Finally, when you downshift, go easier on your transmission, your mechanic (and your wallet) will appreciate. Take care of your car and it will take care of you.

EDIT: Depending on your specific model/year, you might qualify for the big Audi recall from a few months ago.

Greetings,

I need to know if the inexpensive engine chip that one can find online really work?

The opinions seem to be divided on the subject. People speak of a 10 HP increase, others of 20 HP and others might say that it’s useless. Who’s to be trusted? Even if the salesman has 99% of positive feedback, that does not mean that the advertised figures are true. For a cold air intake, I often read about an increase of about 7 or 8 HP or more, depending on the model and the type of filter used. With a $80 (a quality aftermarket air filter), or a cheaper $40 filter (I forget the brands, I am not an expert) can you add up the gains?

Do you produce more power from your tuned engine depending on the base HP? For example, can one’s civic with 110 HP be modified to have the same power gains as an Impreza with 175 HP? This question is valid also for the performance chip. From a fuel consumption point of view, can an aftermarket performance chip affect your MPG’s? Thank you for your answers.

The basic principle to increase the power of an engine is relatively simple. Just pump more litres of air/fuel mixture to the engine so it produces more power. Most engines have a capacity suck up air of around 80%. from the factory. A free air intake, a compressor, or even a turbocharger can be used to increase the air coming into the engine, thus making the combustion more efficient. Because of a less restrictive design, the performance exhaust is emptied faster, leaving the combustion chambers with more room, so a new mix can move in, ready to explode. However, it is really easy to make mistakes when choosing the performance parts for your engine. Everything lies in the harmonization of the components of the car.

Is the ratio of the differential ideal when compared to the curve of HP and torque of the engine?
Will the choice of cam really increase the maximum intake?
Is the engine management computer flexible enough to cope with the changes?

I often come across cars with impressive pedigree that behaved like turtles with chrome exhausts, while cars with little modifications to the exterior moved like missiles. The important thing is to be well informed before you buy performance parts for your car, and seek harmonization between components.